Archive for the ‘Travels’ Category

The Post-Taiwan Syndrome

July 16th, 2010 by Johanna | 1 comment | Filed in China, Food, Travels

It’s been almost three weeks since I’ve returned from Taiwan, and I still have no appetite! I don’t want to eat anything, except for a shaobing youtiao or lo bo gao or dan bing or o-ah jian. Or anything made in Taiwan.

It’s so depressing and well, unappetizing, in Beijing. Why do they eat such nasty food? Can’t they just make good food for cheap?

The differences a cardinal direction can make, Part 2

June 20th, 2010 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Travels

A few things that surprised me about Tokyo, besides how different it is from China and how much more similar it felt to the West.

  • People drive on the left side of the road.
  • This one girl I was walking behind after the U.S. lost to Slovenia was, by all indications, drunk off her ass. She was stumbling everywhere. And yet, while walking down the stairs from the walkway overpass in 4-inch heels, she didn’t fall.
  • There were squat toilets. People used them.
  • For all Japan’s modernity, its hotels are rather stuck in the late ’80s/early ’90s. And we were staying in ones that were supposed to be nice.
  • So many Chinese people!

The differences a cardinal direction can make

June 18th, 2010 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Travels

I’ve made my way from the North ‘jing to the East ‘jing, which is in a whole other country, so that probably explains most of the differences. It’s the battle of the two giant Asian capitals: Beijing versus Tokyo. Which is better?

Cleanliness: The Japanese may have borrowed a lot from the Chinese, but they stopped short of the Chinese’s public hygiene habits. The sidewalks and streets were clean. Shops were neat. Even grubby ramen and sushi restaurants managed to keep their tables, floors and wares clean. Advantage: Tokyo.

Class: In Tokyo, no one made disgusting hacking noises, no one spat, no one spat 2 centimeters from where my next step would be. People dressed nicely to work. They didn’t stare. On the trains, talking on mobiles was forbidden, so nobody was shouting (grunting) into their phones. (For some reason, the Chinese only have two voice volumes when talking on their cells: loud or even louder.) That being said, in the evenings, just about every person in Tokyo is stumbling around drunk. Advantage: Tokyo.

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Shanghai surprise

March 18th, 2010 by Johanna | 1 comment | Filed in China, Travels

Taking a surprise trip to Shanghai this weekend. It’s a surprise because I didn’t really plan on it.

Evan Osnos over at the New Yorker also got a surprise. Hongqiao’s giant new terminal opened Tuesday, which somehow — despite being grand and extraordinary and (presumably) for the Expo — escaped the major news of the day.

From the Motherland to the Holy Land…

February 23rd, 2010 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Travels, USA! USA!

I’m off to Israel for the next 12 days.

Coincidentally, there is a huge issue tying all three countries — the U.S., China and Israel — together: Iran’s nuclear program.

Israel will be sending a delegation to China later this month to persuade China to sanction Iran so that Iran might decide it’s against their interests to keep trying to make nukes.

China, of course, prefers to just negotiate with Iran. Though Israel has gotten Russia on board somewhat, China is a stubborn little child and is unlikely to back down because of a) their ties to Iran, but mostly b) pressure from the West, which it hates.

Ye Hailin, the international relations professor quoted in the article, showed a keen understanding of how Iran works and China’s position: Iran’s desire to develop “nuclear power” cannot be measured with money, and ties in deeply with their dignity and honor. In the same vein, China will lose face (OH HELL NO) if it bows to Western pressure and get very little appreciation in return. Naturally, articles like this one won’t entice China to come around any more.

China is still a developing country from more than just an economic standpoint. Psychologically, Beijing has developed about as much as a 5-year-old. Note to Beijing: The world will never take you seriously, no matter how fast you develop or how big your economy is, until you start being responsible for goodness’ sake without needing recognition for it.

CNY fireworks show puts Fourth of July to shame

February 14th, 2010 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Reflections, Stories, Travels

The Chinese are so different so often that sometimes it’s easy to forget they still are fundamentally like the rest of us.* Enter the Lunar New Year. The atmosphere leading up to the big day is something akin to the end of the year for us Christians/Westerners. The warm holiday spirit infuses everybody and everything. People are happy, animated and generous; there is an electricity and excitement that even a complete hermit or someone who had just come out from under a rock would be hard pressed to miss.

And then, when the clock strikes midnight, something really magical happens. Or it did last night. There was no 10-second countdown. The Chinese countdown lasts much longer and builds up for days. Fireworks, firecrackers and sparklers go off randomly during the day and night the week before, gradually more and more often in anticipation. And then–

Up on the 32nd floor of a downtown Tianjin hotel, we got a fantastic view of the city from our room. And as far as our eyes could see, there were fireworks going off in every corner, every street. Imagine! — this was happening all across the country!** It was near-spiritual to witness. We’ve never seen anything like it. The Chinese went crazy! More gunpowder was used that night than in the two World Wars combined! We watched for about 15 minutes, crawled back into bed and fell asleep to the blasts, which died down within an hour but lasted into the night.

* I don’t mean to imply that they’re not people — just that they’re really different.

**Granted, Tianjin is a relatively big city, so perhaps in the little villages, the show wasn’t so spectacular.

Reining in the tiger

February 11th, 2010 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Travels

Spring Festival is still three days away and there is an official week-long holiday for it, but people are already starting to celebrate. The city is clearing out. Every morning, there has been fewer and fewer people on the streets and bus to work. I like it!

Someone somewhere is setting off fireworks right now. I’ve heard a few these past few days; I’ve seen smoke so far, but not yet a show.

I’ll be off to Tianjin for a few days Saturday. The smart foreigners have fled the country, but I’m looking forward to the temple fairs — if I can find any. My first real Chinese New Year!

More on Datong

August 24th, 2009 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Shenanigans, Travels, Work

I wasn’t planning on writing anything for work about my mini-holidays, but I had such an adventure in Datong that I thought it’d be a pity to leave it all out. It turned out to be a little info guide for would-be visitors to Hengshan and the Hanging Monastery.

The long road home

August 13th, 2009 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Stories, Travels, USA! USA!

1223 Beijing time

Beijing Capital International Airport — Less than an hour until my flight. I think I might even be boarding soon! But I’m in a small cafe in the corner of the gate, which is tucked in the basement below all of the other terminals. My return to the U.S. has not begun well. Air China overbooked Flight 981, so I got stuck with an aisle seat. For 13 hours. Oy.

Then I had to walk probably a mile and half with all of my stuff (there’s a lot of it) to Gate E52, which ended up being in the basement. Now I’m sipping a latte, which is actually a cappuccino, and it’s really small, and I paid 29 kuai for it. I wanted to use the Internet, but it’s not working. I guess I already have spent 229 kuai today, charged to my debit card, which I hope won’t rack up huge conversion costs. Please, Wachovia, spare me.

This is my first coffee I’ve had since I left the States. I can’t believe I’m leaving still …

Goodbyes were short and sweet but otherwise anti-climactic, as goodbyes usually are. Shouldn’t there be something to mark my leave? I barely notice that I’m gone.

I miss Beijing already. My last picture of Beijing is one of my breakfast, a shao bing jia jidan.

Byebye, Beijing =(

1248 Beijing time

Aboard CA Flight 981 — It gets worse. After walking for a mile and half, I then had to be transported to the airplane via bus, a ride that lasted about five minutes. Then I had to climb stairs to the door of a Boeing 747-400 in the blazing Beijing heat that struck a couple of days ago, under a sun that isn’t being blocked by the usual Beijing smog. Just to be clear: I’m carrying the maximum-size carry-on suitcase, a large bookbag and a huge purse that weighs even more. Everything is stuffed full. Thanks, China Air, for being too cheap to rent a real terminal. Oh, and I’m also in heels, which I decided to wear because they took up more room in my suitcase than my flip-flops. I realize I am a bit excessive and have completely dressed and packed wrong for the occasion, but don’t they realize that some people have three months worth of luggage? I paid 200 RMB for my overweight luggage, which if it had been 2 kilograms more would be triple that price. Actually, it was 2 kilograms more. I had to repack my luggage and cram things into my carry-ons and other checked bag. Oy.

Please, please, Wachovia, do not make me pay a ridiculous amount for paying in a different currency.

Less than 10 minutes until scheduled takeoff. Half of the people aren’t even seated, yet, so we’ll see. (more…)

Cat and Joh’s Great Datong Ice Cream Adventure

August 11th, 2009 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Food, Shenanigans, Stories, Travels

After coming back from our big adventure to the Hanging Monastery, we rested for a bit at our hotel. We decided we weren’t very hungry but should eat anyway around 8 p.m., so we went to the hotel next door. It had a pretty nice restaurant (we had eaten there the night before). We ordered some vegetables, xiao chi and dao xiao mian (knife-cut noodleds), a regional specialty. It was very good and a lot of food. You may recall that we weren’t hungry. We stuffed ourselves silly. At the end of the meal, Catherine starts telling me about how southern Chinese people traditionally believe that there are compartments in our stomachs for each flavor and that her sweet compartment is still hungry. I told her mine was, too. It was bingqilin time. (more…)