Archive for the ‘Life’ Category

Pink bicycle updates

May 11th, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Life

I love riding my bike around the neighborhood. It’s like being able to drive again (except probably much more dangerous, for both safety and health reasons). It cuts down on time spent waiting for buses, time spent walking and, most importantly, time spent being angry at stupid traffic. God, traffic is stupid in China.*

Cycling does not always go smoothly, though. I’ve already run into someone (on a scooter), and almost run over several pedestrians, not to mention almost had a car run into me. These are all things I assumed would happen before getting a bike. But bike riding in China is all about knowing the dangers of a lawless road filled with vehicles of all varieties (shiny black Audis, giant accordion buses, giant coach buses, mian bao ches, three-wheelers hauling loads three times the size of the bike itself, rickshaws, motorbikes, scooters, the occasional donkey-pulled cart), plus wayward pedestrians who have a very loose grasp on their lives — and still riding your bike anyway. All of these people and drivers are liable to pull into your path at any given moment without notice and without them noticing you. The trick to riding safely really isn’t to be noticeable, but to have rapid reflexes. I tried to observe whether there were possible rules of the road, but I quickly determined there are none. Go when and where you can go, and don’t put yourself in someone else’s way (although, often they are in your way. Brats). Relax, enjoy the pandemonium, take comfort in knowing that you saved both time and money, and breathe in some delicious Beijing pollution.**

It also helps to be complimented on your bike. I’m fully aware my bright pink (Barbie, according to some) bike is not to everyone’s tastes. However, the other day as I was getting my bike after work, one excellent middle-aged Chinese man made known to me his admiration for my bike. “That’s a nice bike you have,” he said in Chinese, along with other things that were along the same lines. I beamed all the way home.

*Seriously stupid. For example, at the main intersection of the road my apartment building is on and the road my office building is on, the right turn signal is green when the oncoming traffic light is green. I have been able to explain a lot of other stupid rules, but this one is still a mystery to me.

**According to the Beijinger, the polluted air could be making people fat. Between that and the fact that the air here is like smoking one-sixth of a cigarette a day, the health reasons for riding bicycles, while true elsewhere, may be entirely invalid in Beijing.

Milestones

May 2nd, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Life, Reflections

A very important milestone occurs today: I haven’t seen my mommy in a year! This is the same person who I saw every day for the first 16 years of my life and who drove 2.5 hours each way every month to see me at high school and college, just so she could take me out to eat and buy me clothes and stuff. Now the last time I saw her was at the crappy airport in Kunming just after the Labor Day holiday, a year ago.

I can’t believe she let so much time go by without seeing me.

Ahh, the pitfalls of growing up and moving away. I can’t wait to see both my parents again! The countdown, which officially began some two months and 29 days ago, has resumed with a more manageable number: three weeks!

My new pink bike!

April 7th, 2012 by Johanna | 1 comment | Filed in China, Life

Spring — it’s happening, finally. The mornings are still cool and crisp, while mid-afternoons can actually be hot if the sun is beating down on you. It’s been fairly windy recently, which means it’s cooler than it could be, but also clearer. Not-too-chilly, bright blue sunny skies … only one thing could make this time of year better: a bike.

I’ve been thinking about getting a bike for a while now, ever since I moved to the east side of town. Everything was closer — the bars, the restaurants, my hair salon, friends and, finally, my office. But Beijing’s rather inconvenient public transportation meant it would still take a while to get somewhere, and often I found myself thinking, “If only I had a bike!”

So this morning, bright and early (on a Saturday, no less!), I woke up and met up with my friend (he has two bikes!), who hauled me to a place with several shops. I was hoping to get a Giant, but they are pretty pricey and I wasn’t wild about many of the colors or styles. With bike thefts being pretty common, and considering how I might get attached to a Giant bike and not want to leave it when I eventually move back, I decided to go with what can only be a Chinese brand. There were a black chrome, dark blue chrome, yellow and pink one. Guess which one I chose!

What do you think??

Weekend fun: Playing with pandan (a picture story)

March 13th, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Food, Food I can cook in China, Life

I love pandan. There, I said it! I’ve loved it since I was a tiny little girl. It was one of those things that would appear into my life as some delicious jelly or steamed cake and I’d be reminded of how much I liked this mysterious green thing. Then, just as quickly as it appeared, it would disappear into the depths of my digestive system… Anyway, it was the Mid-Autumn Festival of 2010, and I was eating a mooncake with an unknown flavor. I bite into it — it’s pandan in a glorious mooncake filling version! And determined to never let it get away from me again, I finally looked up what it was called. Pandan, apparently.

Fast forward 1.5 years. By now, I even know what it’s called in Chinese — 香兰叶 (xiang lan ye, which translates to fragrant orchid leaf, which is not what pandan is). The pandan offerings of Beijing are minimal, though probably not any less so than most cities in the U.S. And, my mommy has given me a cupcake maker. What is there to stop me? Naturally I’d see what I could do with what is apparently giant blades of grass. I got myself a kilo of the stuff from (where else?) Taobao, China’s version of eBay.

A kilo of pandan!

I think that’s about 50 or so leaves, and it only cost me 66 kuai ($10.44) total to have it overnighted from somewhere down south.

Naturally, I got to work right away. I read up on how to get the pandan extract from the leaves, and I even saw one recipe that called for pandan syrup. This is how:


Tie pandan in knots, then boil it in water and sugar!

And then this is how you extract pandan’s essence:

Chop pandan into tiny pieces, add a tiny bit of water and take a blender to it!

It should look something like this:

Nasty, whacked up pandan!

And when you squeeze all the water out of that, you get:

All that hard work for this?

And then that gives cupcakes a greenish tint and pandan-y flavor! While I consider these cupcakes a failure, they definitely got the flavor. Unfortunately, the cake was a bit dry and not as fluffy as I’d like, and I screwed up on the coconut buttercream by adding too much coconut milk. But this is exactly why I bought a kilo of pandan leaves! More pandan fun!

Pandan cupcakes!

Weekend fun: Gingerbread cupcakes with lemon frosting

February 20th, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Food, Food I can cook in China, Life

So I baked cupcakes over the weekend!

For my mommy, who doesn't eat them so I can eat them alllllll.

The cupcake craze landed in Beijing right about the same time I did, way back in 2009. Now, there is a gourmet cupcake shop near my office, two bakeries that deliver cupcakes to your door, and a trendy cafe that specializes in cupcakes.

Like everywhere else in the world, they are expensive little mofos, costing from 22 kuai ($3.49). For less than that, I could get a bowl of beef noodles and two rou bings for a not particularly healthy, but filling, dinner. Cost of living, folks. I don’t know why I have to pay U.S. prices for cupcakes in China, but it has something to do with bakers who are unwilling to use inferior Chinese ingredients.

I’ve only made cupcakes a handful of times with this tea cupcake set my sister got me a couple of Christmases ago. How charming! Too bad they only come in cute numbers, like four, so all that hard work gets eaten in the span of two minutes. That amount of effort is only justified for a few occasions.

So I’ve spent more than two years looking for a cupcake pan small enough for my oven. Not just for cupcakes, you know, but also muffins. But my oven is so small that even half-sized pans for mini muffins were too big! So I have mostly just been buying cupcakes.

An Easy-Bake Oven for not-quite grown-ups.

But now, I don’t have an excuse to indulge in these delightfully sinful treats anymore! My mommy solved all of these problems in one go, and got me this appropriately pink cupcake maker for my birthday! I was finally able to test it out this weekend and made a batch of blueberry muffins and gingerbread cupcakes. This could be the start of something very exciting, like cupcakes every weekend!

Long nian kuai le, and other stories

February 13th, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Life, Shenanigans, Travels

Winter. It’s boring and cold, especially in Beijing, which turns into a giant windy freezer box for a good four months. I blame the cold for everything, including my disinterest in writing.

But I have actually been up to stuff, such as:

  • Looking for an apartment. Man, what a hassle! Especially in the cold. After going, in the cold, to see a crappy apartment, you just don’t feel like looking at anymore. Instead, you feel torn about whether you want to go back out into the cold or stay in the crappy apartment, which is dirty and decorated weird, but is shielding you from the cold. Nevertheless the real estate agent, who speaks to you in a jarring voice that could only be described as soothing robot voice, drags you to see another apartment anyway, which is too expensive. And crappy.
  • Finding an apartment. Wow! Boyfriend and I totally lucked out. We found a huge apartment for a great price and it’s opposite a park and not much further to the office than old current apartment! And we didn’t have to pay an annoying, unhelpful agent for it.
  • Getting tired of Chinese New Year festivities. Can it be? After two years of month-long firework extravaganzas, I was growing tired of the spectacularly loud and colorful displays of exploding gunpowder? Hmm. Maybe not tired of, but not as impressed and enthralled by. Or can I chalk up my malaise to tighter government regulations?
  • (Speaking of fireworks, I cannot NOT get giddy and excited when I see colorful explosions in the sky. But how come Chinese people look bored when they set them off? Is that what decades of setting off fireworks does to someone?)
  • Buying pet dragons. It’s the Year of the Dragon!
  • Going to the Philippines. I went to five of them, in fact. I did not detect any hostilities remaining from the hostage deaths incident of 2010. Nope, they were very friendly and servicey. Unfortunately, there were also a lot of Chinese, who I presume were also taking a break from China. Still, I nominate it for Best Holiday Ever.
  • Getting tan, parasailing, bananananana boating, falling into ocean, playing badminton and beach volleyball, driving a motorbike, taking boyfriend on motorbike ride, staying in a bungalow, staying in a resort, staying at a bed and breakfast, being an extra in a movie, snorkeling, wading through shallow waters to get to a boat, climbing into one boat from another boat, getting sunburned on a boat with a 5-pound coconut.
  • Watching three of my teams lose in the same week, all from last-quarter/minute/extra time comebacks. God, how depressing. (The last one was just Sunderland in a non-important match, and I only care about them because boyfriend gets upset if they lose, but man, unnecessary. The other teams shall remain unnamed.)
  • Moving. I’ve never hired movers before, but they are so efficient! I hadn’t even finished packing and they had all my shit in the truck ready to go. Jesus. They make me WANT to move. Then, boyfriend and I spent the past weekend scrubbing and cleaning and unpacking and organizing and rearranging. Now that most of it is out of the way, we can go furniture shopping!

So that was the last 5.5 weeks in a nutshell.

The unreported food shortage

February 9th, 2012 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Food, Life

There is a food shortage going on right now in Beijing. I went to three different restaurants for lunch today and they were all out of food.

Restaurant 1: Wild Honey

Boyfriend and I sit down, ready to try something new. It was 1 p.m., admittedly on the late end for lunch, but the small cafe was still full of diners. I chose a tuna sandwich; he went for some kind of pizza with nachos. The waitress (not even kindly) informed me that they are out of bread. Seriously, bread. A pretty staple ingredient for more than five things on their menu. Fine, croissant, whatever. We wait. Ten minutes later, waitress comes and tells us that they are out of nachos! But why did it take them 10 minutes to discover they were out of nachos? We left.

Restaurant 2: 钰花溪 Tangka

So this spicy ramen place seemed to be out of everything we tried to order. Out of six things we pointed at, they had two, which is what we ended up with.

Restaurant 3: Not really a restaurant

I went to check out an herbal tea shop to see if they had bubble tea. They didn’t. Not that they were out of it, they just don’t have it on the menu. Anyway, I tried to get a coconut sago thing instead, which they were out of. At this point, I just gave up trying to order anything.

Actually, it’s quite common to go to a restaurant and, upon ordering your favorite dish, be told they are out of it. Oh, geez, you wonder, why didn’t you tell me that at the beginning, like they do in the U.S.? But you grudgingly move on and try to order something else you like. That’s when you realize why they didn’t tell you what they were out of at the beginning — because they’d be reciting so many dishes.

Restaurants in China serve giant book-fulls of dishes, which means they need to stock a shit ton of raw ingredients. However, they don’t, and bad management/planning means that they don’t stock enough of lots of things to meet demand. I wonder if their lack of respect for demand stems from their Communist days.

Well, it could be worse. There could actually be a food shortage.

Happy holidays

December 25th, 2011 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Life

From China, with love.

The AP, China and taxes

December 8th, 2011 by Johanna | Leave comments | Filed in China, Current Events, Life

It’s not unusual to find misleading, distorted stories in the media. It’s also not unusual for me to wave off the distortions, because, well, I know better and I can glean something from the story anyway. Today, however, I want to direct you to this AP story about foreigners in China squeezed by pensions, taxes. Or that’s what they want you to think. I know who you’re thinking about now — me, right? I would know!

So: Are pensions and taxes squeezing me?

Not really!

First of all, which is worse to an American: China or taxes? Which is more responsible for our country’s decline? There’s no denying, especially with it perpetually being election season, that there are strong cases to be made for both. But what happens when you combine the two? How much worse is it to be paying taxes to China??? Overly dramatic headline.

Communist China does not take all of my hard-earned RMBs and give it to the PLA to dig a bunch of tunnels for their larger-than-defense-analysts-think nuclear arsenal. At my old job, I gave them less than 10 percent of my gross income (base pay + various stipends). If you’re really interested in how China calculates how much individual income tax to collect from people, Wikipedia has a handy table!

Wikipedia, unfortunately, does not have a handy table about the new tax in question: the Social Insurance Tax. Admittedly, there are still many legal and implementation issues surrounding the tax and the law that invented it. Anyway, here’s what the AP article says about it:

The biggest worry for many is an abrupt order for foreign workers and their employers to start paying up to 40 percent of their wages for pensions and other welfare.

[...]

The pension and medical charges took effect Oct. 15, less than six months after they were announced.

This is not true. The tax was first proposed last year in April (more than 1.5 years ago!), promulgated that October and effective nationwide July 1 of this year. Basically, the law was announced a year ago before they took effect, and the effectiveness was even delayed by a few months from the original date in July — all because foreign companies balked at the idea (when it was pointed out at the end of May by state media) of paying more and stirred up debate.

How much more? Quite a bit! The exact amount is determined locally, but generally:

Based on what applies to Chinese employees, the cost could be 37% of monthly income charged to employers and 11% for employees, up to a threshold amount set locally, according to Christopher Xing, a China tax partner at KPMG. The charge in Shanghai, for instance, is based on a maximum monthly income of 11,688 yuan, about $1,800, meaning a monthly hit of $666 per worker for employers and $198 for each employee. (emphasis mine)

From another WSJ article with more details, in Beijing, the salary cap is 12,603 yuan ($1,981) and individual contribution is just a smidgen over 10 percent.

With soaring inflation and rising costs of living, I could probably use that money. But another 1,500 RMB is hardly being “squeezed.” Sure, employers have to pay about 32 percent more, so I can sort of understand if they feel squeezed. But then the article decided to focus on multinational corporations, and all of my sympathy melted away.

And, hey, look at that part I bolded above: the same tax applies to the Chinese. They pay into the same fund at the same rates. So do Chinese companies that hire foreigners (and they hire quite a few). But you wouldn’t know that by reading the AP article because they talk about it like it’s some racist money-sucking scheme by lumping it with this paragraph:

The changes come against a backdrop of critical coverage by state media of product safety and other complaints against high-profile corporations such as Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and energy giant ConocoPhillips Co. Companies also are uneasily awaiting the release of new patent and copyright rules they worry might push them to hand over technology.

Journalists call this “context” but it’s just not right. There have been loads of stories about how foreign companies feel like China is becoming unfriendlier all the time. I agree! China is hardly innocent when it comes to ripping off foreigners (it’s true, they see us as loaded cash registers — visa fees? giant import duties? beer that is double the price of what it should be?), but it’s just not quite the case here.

Now, the problem with the tax is one most Republicans can relate to (but my problem is based on reality). We foreigners are essentially paying into something that is supposed to provide us benefits but, in reality, probably never will. The five “social insurances,” as the Chinese call them, are pension (think Social Security), medical (think Medicare), unemployment (think Unemployment Benefits), work-related injuries and maternity. Work-related injuries and maternity insurance would be the ones most likely applicable to foreign workers, who often stay for a few years and leave. Because our visas are often tied to our employment, we’re kicked out of the country if we don’t have a job, so it’s hard to think of a case where we could collect unemployment benefits. For medical care, most foreigners would never go to a Chinese hospital for something they need help with payment for. And pensions? Ha. China practically actively discourages foreigners from really settling down here.

Which leads to the second reason a lot of foreigners have a problem with the tax: The law is just not clear. Can we get our money back without excessive bureaucratic hurdles? We just don’t know. Probably not. But I’m not going to squabble about losing a month’s salary’s worth to the greedy Chinese government when I’m already living a comfortable life (as most, if not all, foreigners* are) and don’t need the money.

That is, I won’t miss the money until I do need it to help pay the medical expenses incurred from my Beijing pollution-induced lung cancer. Then I probably will wish I hadn’t been so nice to the Commies :(

*When both Western media and Chinese use the term foreigner, they usually mean rich people from the West. I apply this definition here, knowing full well that there are many foreigners from poorer parts of the world living here.

Penguins outside my office!

November 10th, 2011 by Johanna | 1 comment | Filed in China, Food, Life

The candy man staked out in front of my office today at lunch. Naturally, he and his cart captured my attention with all its colorful, sugary goodness. So many kinds of gummy candy! Gummy bears, gummy lychee, gummy Coke bottles, gummy worms, sour gummies…. Then, I noticed these!

March of the penguins.

Gummy penguins! My sister introduced me to these adorable gummy candy last year when she found them at some candy store in the middle of nowhere. As an added bonus, they were peach-flavored, my favorite! These ones are blueberry, though, and a bit pricey at 25 kuai per 500 grams (about $3.94 a pound). I snatched some up right away, spending my last 10 kuai before I realized I could’ve probably bargained a little. Maybe. It wasn’t much, and I wish I could have bought more! The candy man said he only rarely comes to my office — which is true. I’ve only seen candy being sold during lunch maybe once or twice. Now I can only hope our paths will meet again one day :(

Another pic after the jump! (more…)