Thoughts from Dandong

First impressions: Dandong feels like the Myrtle Beach of China, complete with waterfront seafood restaurants and an island with a small amusement park. There are bright neon lights at night, a road and walkway along the river and lots of public spaces. It is in these public spaces where Dandong comes alive. Many groups of people, young and old, gather around: to play jianzi (the Chinese hackey sack), play music, listen to music, people-watch, dance, exercise, swim, fish, catch frogs or just enjoy the night air. Walking along this riverfront drive, one finds it impossible to go more than 100 meters without stopping to watch—something.

North Korea: I saw the Ferris wheel! It looked lonely and out of place (after all, Kim Jong-il just put it there for show and didn’t intend for any North Koreans to actually enjoy it). It wasn’t lit up at night, either, but little of the DPRK was—a stark contrast to Dandong right across the Yalu River. I wonder how the North Koreans I saw through a telescope feel: envious? thankful? confused? curious?

North Koreans: North Koreans are farmers living in sad houses, as best I can tell through a telescope off the Hushan Chang Cheng (Great Wall at Tiger Mountain). I saw some again at the Duan Qiao (OK, the broken bridge), and they were playing (or washing) in the water at a really tiny beach.

North Korea, again: The landscape looks pristine and beautiful. Green mountains in the distance turn into hills that gently roll down into the river. I saw a few bicycles and, today, even a van. The country perhaps has become even more mysterious to me than before I saw it.

The road to Pyongyang: Right beside the Duan Qiao is an intact qiao, a railroad bridge. Yesterday, while we were on the Duan Qiao, a train passed by! It was exciting to see something coming in from North Korea. I couldn’t tell what kind of train it was (as in, which nation operated it), but I did see curious faces of passengers pressed against the windows. What could they have seen on the other side of the bridge? A mysterious, very backward land? Kim Jong-il’s playground? How little I know of North Korea, and here was a whole train (it was like, four cars) of people who knew firsthand…

Speaking of trains: the yinwo (hard sleeper) wasn’t bad at all. I rather liked swinging down from my top bunk, and while there was not much space to sit up, it was pretty comfortable to lie down. I’m pretty sure the 14-hour train ride went by more quickly than the 14-hour flight from JFK to PEK. I just hope the yinzuo (hard seat) won’t be too yin on my bottom.