Archive for June, 2009

An introduction to the dark side

June 9th, 2009 by Johanna | No Comments | Filed in China, Reflections

On the surface, China doesn’t feel all that different from the States. Except for the occasional culture shock, I barely notice I’m in a different country. For one thing, my routine is pretty much the same: I wake up, go to work, come home and eventually find dinner somewhere. I ate out all the time back home, and I eat out all the time here. I’m so used to hearing Chinese back home that it goes in one ear here and out the other.

But every once in a while, something comes up to remind me that I am living in a tightly controlled country: The guards standing at every entrance to every parking lot and building. A popular Web site that I can’t access. The six security cameras that watch and record my every move at work.

Then there was an assignment I got for work today. I was asked to look over it and see if I wanted to polish it—if I did, I would receive monetary compensation. A little strange, I thought, considering my manager had been handing me stories all last week to polish without giving me a choice or any money. Then again, she gave my roommate yesterday some cash after he finished a story involving government workers’ kids. The UNC alum who now works for the company told us that this kind of compensation is nothing unusual.

She also once advised that the answer is always yes here. We will be asked if we wanted to do something—go on a trip, participate in a KTV party, polish a story—and the correct answer is yes. After skimming the story in question, though, I wanted to say no. There was something fishy about it. In fact, it wasn’t even a story; it was a fabricated transcript of a discussion on the Falun Gong that allegedly included scholars from all over the world.

There were, however, no dates of when this discussion happened, no names or associations of the participants and no use of specific data to back the claims the participants made.

Of course, I asked if and where I could find this information. Unfortunately, I was told, this article did not come from within the company. Moreover, it was not going up on the Web site. I reluctantly said I’d do it, immediately sending my conscience into a state of hyperactive guilt production . Haven’t I been trained to ask tough questions? Didn’t I have a high standard for quality and respect for accuracy for all my works?

My only consolation is the hope that a very small number of people will read it, and that they will recognize it’s completely fabricated. The piece came to me referring to Falun Gong as “Falungong cult” or even “Falungong evil cult,” which I edited appropriately. Still, the absence of names and identifications, along with the most unscholarly habit of their “scholars” to simply make claims without citing specific examples, makes the whole thing a frustrating and questionable read.

What saddens me most, though, is not my lack of ethics and my inability to stand up to the Chinese government. I love this country and want to be proud of it, but that the government still engages in and sanctions this kind of thing, that it still even feels the need to do it, undermines their credibility and my faith in the country’s future.

Quick Takes: Observations on the Chinese Way

June 5th, 2009 by Johanna | 1 Comment | Filed in China, Food, Reflections, Shenanigans
  • In China, it is possible to lock someone in the house. This happened to me the other morning, as in, my roommate locked me inside our apartment. I thought I was going crazy, forgetting how to open the door. Fortunately, I was not losing my mind. The door doesn’t unlock from the inside if it is locked from the outside.
  • The scariest few moments of my life occur when I am opening the door to a bathroom stall. I am afraid it will reveal a really filthy squat toilet. Or just a squat toilet in general.
  • The crosswalk between the Gongzhufenbei bus stop and the Gongzhufen subway station entrance is the funnest crosswalk to cross ever. It’s a melee of taxis, buses, cars and cyclists traveling on the side road of Sanhuan Dajie (the third ring) spilling out onto a traffic circle with exits on the left and right. Pedestrians who are thrown into this mess trying to get to the subway station simply take steps wherever there is not a vehicle. It’s a lot like playing Frogger.
  • I feel like God is making up for all those unfulfilled Chinese food cravings I had back in Chapel Hill. But now I just really want a Krispy Kreme original glazed donut, and the nearest Krispy Kreme is in Korea. Other things I miss: Ben and Jerry’s. Good Internet. My pillow.
  • My roommate recently informed me that I’ve been sleeping with a towel. I thought it was a blanket, but now that I know it’s a towel, it definitely feels like a towel. And it’s towel-sized. I’m still using it as a blanket, though.
  • Back home, people treated me like an American: always speaking to me in English, not recognizing that I’m Asian. Here, except for the people at work, everyone speaks to me in Chinese like I’m one of them. It’s a great feeling, and I love talking to people in Chinese with the little Chinese I know. I’m getting the Beijing accent down. “Wei? Ni hao. Zherrrr shirrr shei-ah?” “Qing dai women daor Huar-yuan Qiaor, xibei bian…dui, zai Xisanhuanr.” And I’ll be walking down the streets, seeing all this great food. “Oh, this guy’s selling jiaozi! Oh, he says that’s some yang rou on a stick! Dofu! Ooh, a huoguo dian! That restaurant has Beijing kao ya!” I love being part of the club.
  • Of course, I’m not part of the club. When I came here with my family, I got a few inquiries about where I was from. This time around, I think it’s pretty obvious. Being with Chris gives it away. I’m not quite sure what Beijingers think when they see us together, though. Guys gawk at me a lot and glare at Chris, but every once in a while, people will glare at me, too. I heard they are more cliquish here than in other cities, so I wonder if they think I shouldn’t be hanging out with the whities.

June 4 at Tian’anmen

June 5th, 2009 by Johanna | No Comments | Filed in China, Reflections
I never cared much for the 1989 Tian’anmen Square Incident (or any of the other ones either). Not knowing what China was like 20 years ago, I can’t speak on how the incident has affected China or how much China has changed. What I can say is, I’m adding my more-or-less ambivalence on the incident to my list of Ways in Which I’m Asian.

The other interns from work and I took a trek to the square after our shift ended. They were hoping to catch something cool, a newsworthy event that would somehow mark the anniversary of a historic day. But of course there wasn’t anything to see. Besides the heightened security (there were guards stationed every 5 meters or so with plain-clothes officers standing near them), the average Chinese person—so far as I can tell—just doesn’t care. It’s in the past, and it doesn’t matter if people know the truth about what happened. What little they know has been passed down through hearsay or is from official government propaganda, and there is an awareness that there is more they don’t know.

I wanted to ask the security guard who stopped us from entering the square, Why all the security? We had visited a week ago with no problem; why did we need our passports this time? He asked to see my passport, and I told him I only had my driver’s license. He admired it and then said it wouldn’t work. He asked me who I was with, and I pointed to my friends. He asked me why we came, and I told him we just wanted to take a look and walk around. He asked me why we wanted to look around, and I said, No reason.

He actually let us through, which I like to attribute to my American-Chinese charm. I didn’t ask my questions because my dad had advised me to stay on the government’s side, which I took to mean as “don’t cause any trouble.” The square had much fewer people than last week when we went: in fact, there were probably more security guards than visitors.

It’s the irony that gets me: Tian’anmen, the Heaven-Peace Door, and its square, with the Long-Peace Avenue running through it bore witness to this bloody incident. In effect, it’s the Massacre at Heaven-Peace Door. There are two sides to this story, and as usual, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. Just because people are protesting for democracy and economic freedoms doesn’t mean the government should bend over and say, Here you go! Then again, just because people pose a threat to stability and the government itself doesn’t mean the government should open fire on them.

China doesn’t have the clear-cut ethics of the West; justice and individual rights are not external entities that need to be maintained. Chinese ethics is much murkier, much more instinctive and subjective. For that reason, the Tian’anmen Square Incident that occurred 20 years ago has simply been suppressed, unaddressed and unanswered.